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Ah, fall! The heat is gone, and the subways are finally human-friendly. To me, that means one thing: Time to wear clothing again! And just in time for “See Now-Buy Now” Fall 2016-17 and NY Fashion Week’s SS2017 RTW.
It looks like the keyword this season is 3-d. Anything applied counts, with some oft-repeated favorites: decorations like patches and embroidery, buttons, fringes, patch pockets, huge bows and flying things – mostly ribbons.
In the cover image, Gucci has it all: fringes enveloping the entire dress, the biggest shoulders, and bows. All are larger than life, represented in the red/yellow/green/blue sensibility that Gucci has assumed recently.
Philippe Plein intensifies patch pockets, appliques and chains on outfits of complementary hues. Just to be safe, additional metal squares decorate the knee-high Roman sandals.
Overly large puffed shoulders run the risk of being too young, yet have still taken off this season; but next season they might feel so 2017. However, Dries van Noten’s white puffed sleeves drape in a way more elegant than girlie, especially in his low intensity colors. He does have his share of flying ribbons, waist-defining fringes, and ribbons and ruffles.
At Alberta Ferretti, ribbons, tassels, and belt ends flap around, but with their saturated hues, they seem to have a purpose.
Fendi translates the language of 2017 into a feminine manifesto, with sweet patch pockets, transparent big shoulders, ruffles and applied bows on supple fabrics of delicate colors, placed above surprising pops of color in the socks.
For Lanvin, 3-d means edges incorporated elegantly into the design: marabou, flowers, flying ribbons, and delicate little balls lining the side edges all the way down.
Prada also uses marabou, but playful in the Prada way. Marabou trims the cuffs of the white coat (with applied tab closures) and on the top edge of the strapless top over an oversized-gingham print skirt.
Elegant and drapey Vionnet recalls its 1930s beginnings by incorporating its fringes smoothly into the curves of the gowns, rendered in subtle high-value colors.
Chloe has plenty of ties and thin flying ribbons that hardly make a statement surrounding its shapely separates, but major ruffles and shoulder bows define the yellow dress.
Isabel Marant focuses on the large gathered sleeve, and just to be different, takes that literally.
Off-White has the distinction of the largest neck/shoulder all-in-one ruffle, and the most intensely patterned ruffles.
Although shapes don’t define this season, apart from the coded styles I mentioned in my last blog (the bomber jacket, Western wear, the sweatshirt jacket), the shapes we see do tend to be whatever defines that particular designer. But, mostly there is a follow-the-leader 3-d format. While that might mean less individuality, for the consumer it does facilitate answering the question, “What should I wear this season?” If you are wearing puffy sleeve shoulders and ruffles, or applied decorative things, you’ll be fine. Especially flying ribbons.